Showing posts with label Scotland. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Scotland. Show all posts

Tuesday, July 08, 2008

Nevis - Day 2

It's already 10 am by the time I wake up, although one can't tell by looking out through the hostel's window; it's still relatively dark outside. Lovely Scottish weather, I think to myself and get ready, which doesn't take much time as the hostel is quiet and almost empty. As I am putting on my shoes the receptionist comes around; he's doing his morning rounds and tells me that it is 10.40 and that the check out time is 10 am.

"I'm just about done here"

"Cool"

It is very cloudy and there's a continuous drizzle. So I leave my bag, including my laptop, camera and phone, with the hostel receptionist. I take the jacket with me, hoping that it will protect me from the impending downpour.

I didn't get anything to eat last night, so am pretty hungry, and walk to the cosy restaurant down the street. As I do so, I realize that the pain in my calves has aggravated, giving me a lumbering walk.

As it turns out, the restaurant is closed on Mondays. Hmm...I lumber back to the little shop next door to the hostel, and buy the only bar of chocolate that they have left. I also buy a half litre bottle of water; it should be enough in this cool weather, and besides I can fit it in the inside pocket of my jacket.

Somehow not nearly as many people seem to be climbing up the Ben today, which, of course, is no surprise, given the weather conditions.

I still don't enjoy the stairs, but take comfort in the fact that I know exactly when they will end.

By the time I reach midway, it is raining cats and dogs and I am drenched. My jacket, which is technically my brother's jacket, which was supposed to save me from the rain is evidently not water-proof and becomes an additional load of water-soaking cotton-wool. Additionally, I am wearing old baggy denim trousers which are large enough to hold two of me, and having soaked in the rain, they aren't exactly light. So, it's getting harder, and I'm thanking my stars that I didn't bring my backpack today. Although there are very few people on the mountain today, I meet quite a few that are turning back.

About half an hour from the summit, I sit down to take a rest, panting profusely. A Spanish family that I overtook several minutes ago catches up with me. I must look pretty pitiful, for the head of the family asks me if I would like to have some water. I accept gratefully and gulp down a mouthful. I'm alive again! Then there are no stops till the top.

While I had spent quite a while at the summit yesterday, today I decide to start my descent within 5 minutes. It's still raining heavily, and the strong cold wind is making my wet bandana feel like it's slicing through my skull.

For a while, every step counts. At one point, I have a very brief giddy spell between two steps. I know I must descend quickly and get out of the high winds and pouring rain. So I hurry down the path as fast as I dare; the path is loose gravel made even more slippery by the rains, and don't want to get injured in the practice match and be disqualified from the final.

After what seems a long, long time, I finally reach the snow patch. Like yesterday, I slide down on my bums, paddling with my feet. Unlike yesterday, though, upon reaching the base of my snow-slide, I pick up a handful of the snow and shove it into my mouth. I remember having read somewhere that the snow won't harm you if you let it melt in your mouth, and that's exactly what I do. For the second time in the day, water has revived me. So I figure it's possible to get dehydrated even in cold and wet weather such as this. And I figure that that's what's been happening to me.

I diligently keep going down. While the slopes are all wet and there are puddles on the path, the incessant rain has finally stopped. I feel less battered, but quite tired. I think I need more water.

"I hope you have a change of clothes down there," says a voice behind me. I turn around to see a kindly, bearded, old gentleman in mountaineering gear.

"Yeah! But right now I am more concerned about finding the spring...need some water."

"Oh!"

So he offered me water from his backpack, and I took a sip. Third lifeline of the day.

Withing 10 minutes, I reach the little waterfall. So I climb up the rocks and drink from the cool, pure flow.

That's all I need. But the Gods seem to like me. They make the wet slippery terrain fall behind me, and make the sun shine on the remaining descent route.

On the way down I pass by a trio of boy scouts - aged around 10, 13, and 14 respectively - asking if they are doing alright. They seem to be just glad to be back, as am I. The youngest one expected some sort of a concessions stand at the top; like me, they haven't even had breakfast. So I give the little guy my chocolate bar as I know it was the last bar at the only shop for miles.

Back at the hostel, I have to wait for 10 minutes or so before the receptionist appears. I collect my backpack from him and request him to call a cab. Next, I
find the restroom and change into dry tshirt and shorts. I wear my shoes again, but without socks.

Soon the taxi arrives and takes me to Morrison's/ station. Since my bus is at 7.10pm, and it's just 4.4.40 right now, I decide to wait at the Morrison's Cafe. Good thing too, as I am really hungry.

At the cafe, I find a corner table where I can plug in my laptop, and take my shoes off and keep them to dry in the light of the setting but still warm sun.

I gorge down a cheese mushroom omelet and tomato soup as soon as they are brought to me, and promptly get another tomato soup, beans on toast and mint tea.

The Slovakian waitress thinks I am from somewhere in the Caribbean, which I guess would explain the long hair and the bandana. The bandana! Hmmm...time to take that off.

As I am working on my nice mint tea, and an Excel spreadsheet, a moustached man comes over and tells me that I can't plug in my laptop in the store's electric socket. I think he is joking till he takes away the waiter in the corner and explains him that they can't let me plug in my computer as otherwise I'd never leave.

What an idiot! The cafe is mostly empty, so there's no real reason he should want me to leave. In any case, if he wanted me to leave, my shoes could have been an easier target. Anyhow, his burning up doesn't matter to me - I have enough battery in the laptop to last me a couple of hours, and I decide that I'll go down heavy on him if he comes after my shoes. Fortunately or unfortunately, he doesn't.

At about 5 minutes to 7, I pick up a plastic bag from one of the tills to put my shoes, and walk down to the bus station. The bus departs at the appointed time.

When the bus stops for a toilet and smoking break, I take the opportunity to get some fresh air, and step out of the bus, still barefeet.

"Can you walk like that in the city?" asks a guy.

"Not really. It's just that my shoes got wet on the mountain today."

"Oh, yeah, I can understand that. You climbed Ben Nevis, eh? Once the strong winds flattened out my tent there."

After a moment, he asks, "So, are you from Peru?"

He obviously drew inspiration from a Cordillera de Los Andes Peru tshirt, a gift from a Peruvian friend, which I am wearing. That said, I've never seen a Peruvian guy wear a tshirt that says Peru (we are not talking about sports jerseys).

"No, from India."

"Wow! So this must be like a molehill for you."

"Well, it' small compared to the peaks in the Himalayas, but it's not as if I've climbed all the ones in the Himalayas, so..." I smile.

In Glasgow, I show the driver my mobile ticket and he tells me that it was for yesterday. What? I check the text message and realize that he is right. Just goes to show how thoroughly I planned this trip.

"For £15 I could fix you up," the driver offers.

"Well, I have £10", I open my wallet, "and some coins." I say, pulling out 3-4 pound coins.

"£10 is fine."

And so I reach London in the morning, barefeet and all.

Sunday, July 06, 2008

Nevis - Day 1

There are no direct coaches or trains from London to Fort William. So I decide that it would be best to take the first coach in the morning to Fort William from Glasgow. Since the direct coach from London that reaches Glasgow first in the morning gets there 5 minutes after the first coach to Fort William departs, I decide to book my journey through Birmingham. This way, I'll reach Glasgow with enough time on hand to catch the Fort William coach.

I decide to call my folks in India before leaving London, and somehow that conversation lasts a while, meaning that I am late for my 7pm for Birmingham. Further, after spending a little while at the city bus stop I discover that the buses have been diverted away from this road. So I run down to Westminster and catch a bus from there, and upon alighting at the Victoria underground station, I run to the Victoria coach station. I arrive at the station at exactly 7 pm (or maybe a minute before that), and do not see my coach at the assigned gate. So I go out to ask the uniformed guy outside the door.

As I am waiting for him to get off his walkie-talkie, I see my coach pulling out from behind another one, and wave the driver to stop. But he doesn't and merrily pulls away. This grinds my gears a bit, and it further riles me that the uniformed guy with the walkie-talkie refuses stop the driver, and tells me that he can't change my ticket to get me on the next coach at 7.30. And to get onto that coach, he tells me, I'll have to go to the ticket counter and buy a new ticket.

The ticket counter is crowded. The queue is long and slow-moving and there is no way I can get to the counter before 7.30, meaning the exact same thing could repeat itself. There is no point getting the 8pm ticket as then I'd miss my connection to Glasgow and thus miss my next connection to Fort William. So I go back to the gate. I need to try to get an on-the-spot from the driver. Till the last moment it seems like it will work out, as there is one no-show, but then the guy turns up, and I curse National Express under my breath.

So I go back to the ticket counter queue, which is now even longer, and wait for my turn while munching on a greasy vegetable samosa bought from one of the concession stands. I explain to the booking clerk that I am trying to get to Glasgow in time to catch my 7am Citylink coach to Fort William, and he books for me a seat on Silver Choice, which reaches Glasgow a full 30 minutes before the departure of the Citylink coach. God bless him!

After I freshen up at the Glasgow station, I realize that my cell battery is down, and is not even sufficient to power up the phone for a few seconds. This is great as while buying the tickets online, I had opted for a mobile ticket, meaning that the only ticket I have for the next part of my journey is stored as a text on my cellphone.

Nonetheless, I board the bus and explain the situation to the driver, giving him my name so that he can cross-check. He checks his list and nods upon seeing my name there, but insists that he needs to see my ticket number.

So I tell him to hold on and take a seat right behind him. With fingers crossed, I boot up my laptop, which had something like 7% battery life remaining last night, hooking my phone up with it through the USB-firewire cable in the hope that that will provide enough juice to switch it on and show the driver the text message. Thankfully, the plan works and I am able to kick back and relax till we arrive in Fort William at around half past 10.

There are no cabs at the taxi-stand. So I walk into the Morrison's store and buy a couple of Kitkats and a Scottish tablet. The Kitkats I save for the hike, but finish off the tablet as I wait for the cab. Finally one arrives and takes me to the Youth Hostel.

As I pay for the night, the receptionist tells me that I'd be able to check in only after 1.30pm. That's fine, as I plan to climb up right away without wasting any time.

Although the last time around I had vowed not to carry up my laptop, I decide that for this climb it would be good practice to carry up my backpack and everything in it - the laptop, a 2L bottle of water, a change of clothes, toiletries, and a jacket. The bandana I wear right away.

At the foot of the path I meet a pair of middle-aged Scottish men from Fife who comment on how far away from home I am. Well, I now live in London, I tell them, and thus not quite that far.

With that the flight of stairs begins. It is a nice, bright day, just as the forecast on weather.com promised, although there are clouds on the mountains.

One would think that in the better weather conditions the climb would have become easier, but it hasn't. The first half hour is still pretty hard. I don't like these stairs.

Then I see a young guy with a dog on a leash.

"Boy! If this is where you walk your dog every day, then hats off."

"Of course not," he says and we laugh.

There's a German girl vacationing with her friends. And then other. And another.

I don't know if there's something about this mountain, or about German girls, but there seem to be an awful many of them around here.

There is a 60-odd years old Scottish couple taking a slow walk.

Next, I pass by a Czech girl. She is vacationing with her boyfriend, and climbing the hill with him too, but he is somewhere far behind.

As I overtake her, I notice a dancing cloud on the mountain. So I stop to videotape. It is amazing. For about 15 minutes, the cloud forms, dissipates and prances & waltzes around again and again till becomes a thick fog.

On the way up, there are more German girls and German couples. There is also a smattering of Irish and Scottish teens and late-middle-aged folks, some of them with dogs.

It is interesting to see that one needs to cross a little patch of snow on the way, even on this summer day.

Closer to the summit, I run into the Czech girl again. She is going down.

"You are FAST," I say, "already climbing down."

Not the case, she tells me. Apparently, her boyfriend is feeling exhausted, and she needs to go to him and help him walk to the summit. Hmmm...

The peak (Scots would call it a Munro) is quite unlike a peak; it looks more like a plateau strewn with igneous rocks. The highest point is marked by an Ordnance survey trig point placed atop a large cairn. There are ruins of the old observatory around the middle of the plateau, and right by it on another large cairn is a storm shelter hut made of stone. This hut was airlifted here from Corpach in 1991. The top of the hut is higher than the trig point, making it the highest man-made structure in the British Isles.

Because of the extremely poor visibility I was unable to experience the Ben fully the last time around, and it feels great to see all this so vividly.

The view from the top is beautiful, and to add to the joy, the sun decides to make a rare appearance, albeit just for a minute or two.

As I am soaking it all in, two brothers aged 13-14 jostle up the cairn. I laugh.

"Bet you guys ran all the way up here."

"No, we slogged"

They live in Philadelphia and are vacationing in England and Scotland, as well as visiting their grandfather.

While I am chatting with them their mother catches up. She is Indian. She last came up here when she was 20, and now has come back to show her kids where she'd been. That must feel wonderful, I think.

"Oh, that's a great idea, I should have brought an Indian flag too," she points to my bandana.

On the way down, I want to wrap it up quickly. So much so, that when I reach the snow patch, instead of carefully lumbering through it like all the other civilized people around me, I just jump so as to land on my backside, and slide down all the way, paddling with my feet to direct and accelerate my motion.

And I run most of the way down. It just feels great to step from rock to rock. It' fun, it's fast, and I think it's safer too, as in stepping wide, one widens the base under one's center of gravity.

"Oh, you are faster than the wind," chirps a Bavarian girl I had met earlier at the summit. I laugh.

At the little waterfall, I drink from the cool stream and set down to rest. And as a few people (including the Bavarian couple) pass by me, I mawk (mock hawk) fresh Scottish spring water. After resting for a couple of minutes, I continue my descent.

The Bavarian couple are very jolly, and we engage in banter. I tell them that I had to shut my spring water business down as there no takers.

"Well, people are hungry...you should sell food. That might work better," says the girl.

"Yeah, I could sell some Bavarian food here, and then no one would climb up...they'd eat, and the lie down to sleep."

I tell them that I plan to climb up again tomorrow, and the guy thinks it would be great if I can get out of bed tomorrow - my muscles will be so sore, he thinks. I hope he's wrong.

Walking down the stairs, I realize that for me climbing down is harder than climbing up. While climbing up, I am moving towards a goal, an objective - to reach the top; while climbing down, I'm thinking, "Oh I've completed the task, send a chopper and take me home already."

Just before getting to the hostel, instead of going onto the bridge, I jump over the fences off the track and walk down to the little stream. It feels so good that I lie down there on the pebbles in the shade of the tall, green trees, with my backpack under my head. Before I know it, my eyes start getting heavy.

By the time I wake up, the sun has gone down behind the mountains and the birds are flying back home. So I get up and start walking towards the hostel, and suddenly sense a slight pain in my calves. Hopefully a good night's rest will fix that.

Click here to check out my pictures from Ben Nevis of 06 Jul 2008.

Thursday, February 28, 2008

Ben Nevis, vanquished!

The C10 to Victoria Coach Station was late on Tuesday night. In fact, it was so late, that had I known, I could have walked down from my place and reached the station before the bus. Anyway, I was able to run into the 22:30 bus as it was getting ready to depart. Good thing I opted for the mobile ticket!

The London-Glasgow overnight bus reached its destination minutes late and I "just missed" the 7am to Fort William. The next bus is at 10, meaning it would deliver me there only around 1pm. Not good, considering that the forecasted sunset is for around 5.30pm.

"You might be able to get a train", suggested the girl behind the Scottish CityLink counter, and I took from her directions to the railway station. Once I got to the Central Station, I was told trains to Fort William depart from the Queen's Street Station, which thankfully is a short walk away. At the correct station, it turned out that my train would leave in about an hour and reach Fort William a couple of minutes before noon. Noon is better than 1pm...every minute of daylight is worth it.

So I bought the ticket and walked around the station, clicking a few pictures along the way. Glasgow is a fascinating city - cosmopolitan, modern, and working-class.

My camera's batteries died before I could take the 5th picture, and I replaced them with Duracell Ultra M3 batteries (this would be an interesting little detail later on).

Of course, due to technical trouble the train never departed at the scheduled time, or with the schedules coaches. The one time in my life when I was on time to catch a train, this had to happen! :-) The train finally chugged away about 20 mts late and with only two of the originally planned four coaches, with me inside one of them. This means that I'd need to change over to a conneting train in Crainlarich.

In Fort William, a £5 cab ride took me to the Youth Hostel. On the way there, the driver regaled me with tales of how he does a lot of work for the movies, and how he was the director's driver for the third Harry Potter movie. He told me how the area where we were going is a favorite with movie-makers (Highlander, Rob Roy, Brave Heart, and the Harry Potter movies have been shot in Glen Nevis) because the scenery is beautiful and being a protected area it doesn't have any power cables etc to be edited out later.

They had been having some awful weather for the past week or so but this day was looking good - there was still sunlight at 12:35pm.

Right across the road from the Youth Hostel is the beginning of the ascent to Ben Nevis. The pony track, the sign says, takes most people 7-8 hours to complete, though the record stands at about 90 mts, accomplished during the Ben Nevis race, which is organized every summer. The scramblers' path, I hoped, would be somewhat shorter.

Ben Nevis is the highest mountain in the British Isles, which makes it sound impressive. Ben, of course stands for Mountain, while Nevis is a Gaelic word that can be translated as either Clouds or Poisonous. Thus, Ben Nevis has been variously described as the "Mountain with its head in the clouds" and the "Poisonous mountain". This adds a certain mystique to it. However, as I've been telling everyone who'd care to listen ever since I decided to climb it a few days ago, its summit is a mere 1,344 metres (4,406 ft) above sea level.

The height numbers are slightly deceptive from comparison perspective, though, as here one starts at 50 metres while for many other mountains the starting point is much higher, meaning that at Ben Nevis one has to climb up almost all its height above sea level.

Also, as I dicovered going up Ben Arthur a couple of years ago, the apparent height of Scottish mountains can be deceiving to passers-by going by the foot of the hill. This is because unlike the Himalayas, the Rockies and the Alps which are young-fold mountains and are almost conical, the Grampians are old fold mountains and rarely allow a view of the peak from the foot.

Anyway, enough talk. Down to the action now!

The first half hour was the toughest - with my lungs crying out that they could take no more. Thereafter one gets a bit acclimatized and the rhythm sets in. I suspect that part of it is also that till the time that one can see "home" upon turning around, one's brain thinks it can persuade one to return to base, but once the visual contact is severed, it is psychologically the point of no return.

Since I didn't have the luxury of a whole day of sunlight, and since the skies were getting overcast pretty quickly, I kept going up at a good pace, stopping only to click a photo or two here and there. One of the people I passed by on the way up was really interesting - he looked thin and tired and was making slow progress with his large mountaineers' knapsack. Apparently he was planning to camp in the mountain for the night!

Much faster-moving were the folks climbing down in full mountaineering gear. As we exchanged nods and hellos, a few of them told me about the bad visibility up there. Hmmm...just how bad could it be?

And suddenly, I was at Lochan Meall! While one knows how high above the sea level valleys and lake surfaces can be, it is some experience to climb up a mountain and find a lake up there! It was beautiful there and the clouds relented just about enough to let me click a few pictures.

It was also at that point that I got my first snow. The "snowfall" lasted about 5 minutes along with the gale. I think it wasn't really a snowfall; instead, the strong wind had picked up some of last night's fresh snow from the higher reaches and was depositing it as flakes. In any case, it was so light that by the time I got my backpack off, and took my camera out, most of it had been brushed off my t-shirt by the winds.

Withing 10 minutes or so, there was another strong gale with snow. This one was much colder, faster and longer-lasting. A tiny, little snowstorm, if you will. By the time it subsided, my hair was frozen stiff, which reminded me that I desperately need a haircut. Or a bandana.

Patches of snow started appearing on ground soon after that. I was prepared for this - off came the sport-shoes/sneakers (I don't know the difference), and on the socks went a set of polythene grocery bags before the sneakers went back on.

It seemed like I didn't have much daylight left - the sun had been playing hide and seek for while, showing its face for short and infrequent bursts of time. So maybe it was time for some final pictures before the summit.

The camera refused to work and said the battery was dead. But I had just changed the batteries in Glasgow, fewer than 100 photos ago! My hypothesis, later to be proven correct, was that the alkaline batteries had stopped working due to the cold and would work once again once it got to room temperature.

Before I knew it, I was walking in almost knee-deep snow. My loose-fit denim jeans, that I have overused and abused for almost 2 years, have taken a lot and I was sure they'd take this too.

Additonally, though, it started to get pretty foggy. One can see how one may lose one's way around these parts.

As for me, I followed in on the tracks made by others. It is relatively safe to use the tracks, especially the deeper ones as the snow locks your legs and makes the movement steadier and, dare I say, easier. One should take care while using the shallower tracks on not-so-fresh snow, though. The pressure caused by the body-weight of the person who created the tracks melts a thin layer, which freezes again when the pressure is released, i.e. when the person has moved on. However, this refreezing process yields slippery ice, not nice, powdery snow. So there!

Climbing up, I crossed paths with a kindly-looking man and his teenage son. They never made it to the peak and had decided to turn around as it was cold. Hmm...good point, maybe it's time to get my jacket out from the backpack now, I figured. As for the father-son duo, I think that had I been climbing with my son, I would probably have turned back too, considering how quickly the weather was becoming more and more inclement and the light was getting less and less.

As I kept gaining altitude, the snow started to get harder and slipperier. After a particularly tough portion, I decided I had earned a gulp of water. The water was surprisingly warm - perhaps because in my backpack it was insulated from the outside weather by an insulated vest (see? I went prepared), and an extra pair each of socks and shoes (in case the ones I was wearing got wet and cold). It felt good that I was doing well on the water - of the 3L I was carrying, this was my first sip.

And suddenly I saw it - my notebook computer! Why in the world I took it along for the ride, I still don't know. Here's what I do know though - never ever carry a laptop on a climbing trip, unless you really really really need it. And even if you must, get a light small one. But please never carry a huge 17" one that, combined with the power brick, forms a dead weight of 5kg on your back.

The terrain kept getting tougher, and I kept trudging on till I met the group of five professional mountaineers in impressive gear, the kind that one has only seen in movies like Vertical Limit, probably about a third of a mile from the top.

"You're not getting anywhere in that, mate", said the leader of the pack, presently pointing to my sneakers though I suspect he was referring to the whole of me. He went on to show me his spiked snow-boots, and said that as we were going up, we were leaving behind the easy powder-snow and getting into hard-ice territory, which is why they needed ice-axes and such. Of course, I had noticed that the climb had been getting harder for a while, but the tracks had been helping me along even though they were getting shallower and shallower.

"About time to turn back around, mate", another one chimed.

I turned to have a look down. I was not about to drown after reaching the shore like the gypsy.

"Folks, at this point, I think you'd appreciate that it's harder to go back down than it is to go up. I don't think we're that far away from the top. If you could help me, I'd be very grateful."

They grudgingly accepted, and I happily became a dead weight for them. I was given an end of their rope, and the nice Welsh guy in front of me stomped his steps really hard in order to make good foothold tracks for me.

The top of the mountain is not what one would expect. It's a large, open, almost flat area - quite like a plateau! The visibility was so bad that I could barely see the outline of the Welshman in front of me, though he wasn't more than 3-4 ft away. Thankfully the mountaineers had a map which we followed to find the "summit", which is essentially a point, on the almost flat surface, marked with a few rocks and a sign. Stupid Scottish old-fold mountains!

It would have been nice to have been able to take pictures at the summit, if only just to show how one couldn't see a thing. Woe be unto alkaline battery manufacturers, especially to Duracell.

My mountaineer friends advise me to climb down quickly, at least up to Lochan Meall, as there seemed to be a storm gathering. They themselves were planning to camp for the night by the ruins of the observatory whose walls would provide their tents some cover.

Climbing back down really did prove to be very tough, especially when at one point I lost the tracks. But then, the clouds parted a bit, and I could see the tracks some 20-25 ft to my left, down a slope that led into a cliff. I tried lumbering towards them, but kept slipping and falling. I was losing daylight quickly, so I decided I needed to use the slippery surface to my advantage. I sat down and slid towards the tracks, ready to dig my heels in were I to slide past the tracks - it would be painful to ram my heels again and again on the icy-surface, but the prospect of sliding into the cliff wasn't too appetizing either.

Thankfully, all that concern was dissipated as I made a perfect landing and fixed my foot into a comfortably deep track. Some swift progress, and I was out of the woods (icy snow?) before I knew it.

The jacket came off pretty quickly as it was restricting my movements. Upon reaching Lochan Meall, I took a break and celebrated by ravaging both my granola bars - the first food I had had since the morning. It's good that I climbed on an empty stomach - I was travelling light. It would have been impossible to do on a full stomach.

Further down, I met the father-son duo from earlier, sitting on a boulder sipping coffee.

"Did you make it to the top?"

"No, I turned back", I lied. A father is not just a human being to his children. He's a hero, an idol. He's strong and wise and capable. I'm sure my little lie made both the father and the son feel much better about their trip.

On my way down, I saw 3 black sheep grazing, evidently oblivious to the darkening skies - maybe this is an everyday affair for them. Bemused, I made a bleating sound, and the one closest to me looked up, startled. So I repeated the sound and the confused little thing stopped grazing, looking at his other two companions in turn to see where the source of the sound was. Very amusing. I had had my entertainment for the day.

Once at the bottom, I used the Youth Hostel phone to call a cab which arrived in 10 mts and took me to the bus station. I don't think there is an evening train to London from Fort William. Besides, the trains are pretty expensive compared to the buses.

The timetable said the next bus to Glasgow would leave in about 1 hr 40 mts. A little hungry, I went into the Morrison's store, whose back serves as the bus stop by the way, and bought myself some unhealthy, fried, greasy Indian snacks.

As I was walking out, I realized I was out of cash! I needed cash because I needed to buy the ticket from the driver in the bus - no ticket counters around here.

No problem! I was sure I'd be able to get it from one of the two ATMs outside the store. Neither turned out to be in working order. Hmm...so I walked back in to Morrison's to figure out what cheap stupidity I could waste some money on. And found the perfect one - I like Ice Age and Chicken Run, and Robots was alright, so I bought the £6 triple pack, and got some cashback from the store.

Back at the bus stop, I started to enjoy my cold vegetable pakoras. Arrghhh! Cold! She didn't warm these up. Oh, well! There was no way I was going back in just to get the snacks heated - the trip from the bus stop to the far end of Morrison's is too tiring, you see?

Just after I got done with the food, a girl with a familiar face came over and sat down next to me. Oh, I remembered - I saw her on the train while coming here. So I asked here if she communted from Glasgow, which would have been pretty odd if it were true. No, she told me, she had just come over for a meeting. She was born and brought up in Dublin and works as a project manager for a communications company in Skye. She had had a morning meeting in Glasgow and an afternoon one in Fort William and was looking forward to returning home to Skye. When she had checked a half hour ago, the driver had told her to come back around now, but when she tried getting into the bus just now, she was told to come at 7.

"You do realize that this bus in front of us is going to Glasgow?", I had to say.

"Oh! Oh, that's right! My bus is that one a few stances further down."

"Alright! Have a safe journey."

My bus left punctually at 7.10 pm. Evidently not many people like to travel from here to Glasgow at night. At the Buchanan Bus Station, I was able to find a London-bound bus ready to board. By the time I had breakfast at Dnister Cafe by the Victoria Coach Station, I had slept for a whole 11 hours - throughout the 3 hr journey from Fort William to Glasgow and the 8 hr journey from Glasgow to London.

Nevis, you are a tough little brat, but I beat you!

Click here to check out my pictures from this trip of 27 Feb 2008.

Friday, August 26, 2005

Demetri Martin - These Are Jokes

Today I went to Demetri Martin's show called (imaginatively) "These are jokes". As promised, the show was essentially Demetri Martin standing (, sitting, playing harmonica, walking around, rapping etc.) and telling jokes. I thought he had some good ones (though at £11 concessional ticket, it was steep). Here's a sampler:

I wonder how long it took to make the first clock.

I had a nice clock. The big hand broke off, but I didn't want to throw it away, so I wrote "ish" after every number.

I love kids. It's not the same as saying I love people only for a little while. How old are you? 13-years? Fuck off. You are yesterday's news. "I love kids" as a general statement is fine, but specificity is calling for trouble. "I love 12-year olds."

Infinity should have been a longer word. It's shorter than seventeen. That's ridiculous.

I like the word alphabet. That word is like a preview.

I thought I saw a d yesterday, but it was a p standing on it's head.

I don't like the letter Q. It's like a half-a-letter. C'mon, as soon as I hear Q, I'm like let me guess what's next. It's U. Talking to U, I' d say it's time you did your own thing. Everytime I see you, it's behind Q. It's like you are Q's bitch or something. I mean he's just a hole and a dick.

The word regards is very weird. Regards is something you can send to someone, but you can't give them directly.
"Give Frank my regards. Or hold it, I'm gonna take them over."
"Frank!"
"Yeah?"
"Regards." "Regarding you." "Hold on, hold on, take them."
"Hey man, this is ridiculous. Next time you want to give me regards, just send them over. I do wanna see you regardless, but don't bring along your regards."

A secret admirer is just a stalker with stationery.

I think most people are assholes, because whenever you see a bunch of people, and shout "Hey asshole", they all turn and look.

I think match-making would be a boring job.
"What do you do?"
"I'm a matchmaker."
"Oh, how romantic."
"No, I make actual matchboxes."

I stayed in a hotel, and asked for a wake-up call. When the phone rang in the morning, the voice said, "What are you doing to your wife?"

I like push doors more than pull doors. When I come across a door that says pull, I'm like, "Are you kidding me? You open in the opposite direction to where I'm heading. So, you're asking me to backtrack."

Revolving doors are the worst. Imagine forgetting something while in a revolving door.

I've always wanted to write "Pull" on a revolving door just to see how obedient people are.

Funny how a drink of water can make you rearrange your priorities. "I don't have a job. I need to pay the rent on my house." Then you drink water, and it's like, "I need to find a bush." Whenever I am having big problems, I drink a lot of water.

I always love coming back to Scotland. I love drinking water here. The bottle says Still Water. After all these years!

I make a phone call, "Is Trish around?"
The answer comes, "You have the wrong number."
I say, "No, I'm trying to avoid her."

It is said that people who live in glass houses shouldn't throw stones. Yeah, okay, how about "nobody should throw stones"? It's just shitty behavior, isn't it? My policy is no stone throwing regardless of housing. Here's the exception, though. If you are trapped in a glass house, and you have a stone, yeah, go ahead, throw it and get out.

These days so many people use digital cameras. Digital cameras are great in that they let you reminisce instantly.

I am never able to find the mystery section in a bookshop. I fear that if I go to ask the helpers, they'll say, "I could tell you, but then I'd have to kill you."

My roommate is an artist. He designs icons for agnostics.

Having a pet in the city means your need for companionship exceeds your disgust for scooping poop.

It would be funny if you are typing a ransom note on your computer and the little clip pops up, "It looks like you are typing a ransom note. Do you need any help with it?"

It's interesting how you can either say thanks or thanks a million, but nothing in between. How about thanks 256?
"Hey buddy thanks 256"
"You are crazy!"
"Hmph...it's thanks 255 now. Go on like that, when we reach zero, it will be no thanks."

There's a place near my house called Joe's Pizza. I've never gone in, but now I'm curious. I assume that the apostrophe is possessive, but what if it's a contraction?

The other day, at a store I met an amazing woman. She was the attendant, and told me, "If you need anything, I'm Jill." Wow! I've never before met a woman with a conditional identity.

I love women. You can always trust them. I was sitting in the park, and this woman with a dog came along. I asked, "Does it bite?"
She said, "Oh, no."
I'm like, "Yeah? How does it eat then?"

It feels so great to make someone's day. Little things can make someone's day. The other day, in the library, I went to the librarian's desk, "Do you have any books on awesome librarians?"

After having a dinner at a Mexican restaurant one night, I got a call from my friend in the morning, "Hey, that Burrito didn't agree with me."
I'm like, "Was the disagreement on whether or not you'll shit straight, by any chance?"

Yesterday, in the park, I read a book cover to cover. It only took a minute. I kinda went on the outside.

Saturday, August 13, 2005

All I really need to know, I learned in kindergarten

Another lazy Saturday in August’s Edinburgh. Another show at “the festival”. Of course the shows are pretty expensive and I am not a rich kid by any stretch of imagination, so I finger through the Fringe guide for shows for £5.00 and under. “All I really need…” attracts my attention. At £4.00 for a concessional ticket, it appears promising. So far, I haven’t gone by reviews or WoM (word of mouth) and have done alright. So this can’t be too bad. I talk my roommate into joining me for the show, though he needs to leave early.

Well, as it turns out, today is the last of the four showings of this particular “play”. Interestingly enough, the venue Greenside appears to be some sort of a chapel rented out as a “festival” venue. Even so, the A.H.S. Drama/ American High School Theatre Festival production of Robert Fulghum’s collection of short stories, “All I really need to know, I learned in Kindergarten” turns out to be one of my best-value buys at the Edinburgh International Festival.

Granted, the actors were just raw high-school kids, and the direction was jerky at best, but the it’s not for nothing that these short tales by Fulghum are used as the first performance at school theaters all over the United States. In fact, the show I was at received a standing ovation.

Here are the scenes for your pleasure (for some scenes, I didn’t have the story, so I’ve jotted down the titles…you are welcome to post those). You be the judge:

Credo

Each spring, for many years, I have set myself the task of writing a personals statement of belief: a Credo. When I was younger, the statement ran for many pages, trying to cover every base, with no loose ends. It sounded like a Supreme Court brief, as if words could resolve all conflicts about the meaning of existence.

The Credo has grown shorter in recent years – sometimes cynical, sometimes comical, sometimes bland – but I keep working at it. Recently I set out to get the statement of personal belief down to one page in simple terms, fully understanding the naïve idealism that implied.

The inspiration for brevity came to me at a gasoline station. I managed to fill and old car’s tank with super-deluxe high-octane go-juice. My old hoopey couldn’t handle it and got the willies – kept sputtering out at intersections and belching going downhill. In understood. My mind and my spirit get like that from time to time. Too much high-content information, and I get the existential willies – keep sputtering out at intersections where life choices must be made and I either know too much or not enough. The examined life is no picnic.

I realized then that I already know most of what’s necessary to live a meaningful life – that it isn’t all that complicated. I know it. And have known it for a long, long time. Living it – well, that’s another matter, yes? Here’s my Credo:

ALL I REALLY NEED TO KNOW about how to live and what to do and how to be I learned in kindergarten. Wisdom was not at the top of the graduate-school mountain, but there in the sandpile at Sunday School. These are the things I learned:
Share everything.
Play fair.
Don’t hit people.
Put things back where you found them.
Clean up your own mess.
Don’t take things that aren’t yours.
Say you’re sorry when you hurt somebody.
Wash your hands before you eat.
Flush.
Warm cookies and cold milk are good for you.
Live a balanced life – learn some and think some and draw and paint and sing and dance and play and work every day some.
Take a nap every afternoon.
When you go out into the world, watch out for traffic, hold hands, and stick together.
Be aware of wonder. Remember the little seed in the Styrofoam cup: The roots go down and the plant goes up and nobody really knows how or why, but we are all like that.
Goldfish and hamsters and white mice and even the little seed in the Styrofoam cup – they all die. So do we.
And then remember the Dick-and-Jane books and the first word you learned – the biggest word of all – LOOK.

Everything you need to know is in there somewhere. The Golden Rule and love and basic sanitation. Ecology and politics and equality and sane living.

Take any one of those items and extrapolate it into sophisticated adult terms and apply it to your family life or your work or your government or your world and it holds true and clear and firm. Think what a better world it would be if we all – the whole world – had cookies and milk about three o’clock every afternoon and then lay down with our blankies for a nap. Or if all governments had as a basic policy to always put things back where they found them and to clean up their own mess.

And it is still true, no matter how old you are – when you go out into the world, it is best to hold hands and stick together.

Yes! Of course I can


Cinderella

A kindergarten teacher I know was asked to have her class dramatize a fairy tale for a teachers' conference. After much discussion, the children achieved consensus on that old favorite, "Cinderella," the classic rags-to-riches story that never dies. "Cream will rise" is the moral of this tale: someday you may get what you think you deserve. It's why adults play the lottery with such passion.

"Cinderella" was a good choice from the teacher's point of view because there were many parts and lots of room for discretionary padding of parts so that every child in the class could be in the play. A list of characters was compiled as the class talked through the plot of the drama: there was an absolutely ravishing Cinderella, the evil stepmother, the two wicked and dumb stepsisters, the beautiful and wise fairy godmother, the pumpkin, mice, coachman, horses, the king, all the people at the king's ball: generals, admirals, knights, princesses and, that ultimate object of fabled desire, the Prince: good news incarnate. The children were allowed to choose roles, As the parts were allotted, each child was labeled with felt pen and paper and sent to stand over on the other side of the room while casting was completed. Finally, every child had a part.

Except one. One small boy had remained quiet and disengaged from the selection process. A somewhat enigmatic kid -"different" -and because he was plump for his age, often teased by the other children. "Well, Norman," said the teacher, "who are you going to be?"

"I am going to be the pig," replied Norman.

"Pig? There's no pig in this story."

"Well, there is now."

Wisdom was fortunately included in the teacher's tool bag. She looked carefully at Norman. What harm? It was a bit of casting to type. Norman did have a certain pigginess about him all right. So be it. Norman was declared the pig in the story of Cinderella. Nobody else wanted to be the pig, anyhow, so it was quite fine with the class. And since there was nothing in the script explaining what the pig was supposed to do, the action was left up to Norman.

As it turned out, Norman gave himself a walk-on part. The pig walked along with Cinderella wherever Cinderella went, ambling along on all fours in a piggy way, in a costume of his own devising -pink long underwear complete with trapdoor rear flap, pipe cleaner tail, and a paper cup for a nose. He made no sound. He simply sat on his haunches and observed what was going on, like some silently supportive Greek chorus. The expressions on his face reflected the details of the dramatic action. Looking worried, sad, anxious, hopeful, puzzled, mad, bored, sick, and pleased as the moment required.

There was no doubt about what was going on and no doubt that it was important. One look at the pig and you knew. The pig was so earnest. So sincere. So very "there." The pig brought gravity and mythic import to this well-worn fairy tale.

At the climax, when the Prince finally placed the glass slipper on Cinderella's foot and the ecstatic couple hugged and rode off to live happily ever after, the pig went wild with joy, danced around on his hind legs, and broke his silence by barking. In rehearsal, the teacher had tried explaining to Norman that even if there was a pig in the Cinderella story, pigs don't bark. But as she expected, Norman explained that this pig barked. And the barking, she had to admit, was well done.

The presentation at the teachers' conference was a smash hit. At the curtain call, guess who received a standing ovation? Norman, of course, the barking pig. He was, after all, the real Cinderella story. Word of a good thing gets around, and the kindergarten class had many invitations to come and perform "Cinderella." Sometimes the teacher would have to explain what it was about the performance that was so unique.

"It has a pig in it, you see."

"Oh, really?

"Yes, the star of the show is... a barking pig."

"But there's no barking pig in 'Cinderella'."

"Well, there is now."

Hide and seek


Larry Walters flies


Donnie, the leaf raker


The stuff in the sink


Problems and inconveniences


The bench


MOTB

I have married more than a thousand times. Officiated as the minister at a whole lot of weddings and usually managed to get so involved in each occasion that it felt like I was the one getting married. Still, I always look forward to marrying again, because most weddings are such comedies.

Not that they are intended as such. But since weddings are high state occasions involving amateurs under pressure, everything NEVER goes right. Weddings seem to be magnets for mishap and for whatever craziness lurks in family closets. In more ways than one, weddings bring out the ding-dong in everybody involved.

I will tell you the quintessential wedding tale. One of disaster. Surprisingly, it has a happy ending, though you may be in doubt, as I was, as the story unfolds.

The central figure in this drama was the mother of the bride (MOTB). Not the bride and groom or minister. Mother. Usually a polite, reasonable, intelligent, and sane human being, Mother was mentally unhinged by the announcement of her daughter's betrothal. I don't mean she was unhappy, as is often the case. To the contrary. She was overcome with joy. And just about succeeded in overcoming everybody else with her joy before the dust settled.

Nobody knew it, but this lady had been waiting with a script for a production that would have met with Cecil B. DeMille's approval. A royal wedding fit for a princess bride. And since it was her money, it was hard to say no. The father of the bride began to pray for an elopement. His prayers were not to be answered.

She had seven months to work, and no detail was left to chance or human error. Everything that could be engraved was engraved. There were teas and showers and dinners. The bride and groom I met with only three times. The MOTB called me weekly, and was in my office as often as the cleaning lady. (The caterer called me to ask if this was really a wedding, or an invasion he was involved in. "Invasion," I told him.)

An eighteen-piece brass and wind ensemble was engaged. (The church organ simply would not do - too "churchy.") The bride's desires for home furnishings were registered in stores as far east as New York and as far south as Atlanta. Not only were the bridesmaid's outfits made to order, but the tuxedos for the groom and his men were bought - not rented, mind you. Bought.

If all that wasn't enough, the engagement ring was returned to the jeweler for a larger stone, quietly subsidized by the MOTB. When I say the lady came unhinged, I mean UNHINGED.
Looking back, it seems now that the rehearsal and dinner on the evening before the great event were not unlike what took place in Napoleon's camp the night before Waterloo. Nothing had been left to chance. Nothing could prevent a victory on the coming day. Nobody would EVER forget this wedding. (Just as nobody ever forgot Waterloo. For the same reason, as it turned out.)

The juggernaut of fate rolled down the road, and the final hour came. Guests in formal attire packed the church. Enough candles were lit to bring daylight back to the evening. In the choir loft the orchestra gushed great music. And the mighty MOTB coasted down the aisle with the grandeur of an opera diva at the premier performance. Never did the mother of the bride take her seat with more satisfaction. She had done it. She glowed, beamed, smiled, and sighed.
The music softened, and nine - count them, nine - chiffon-draped bridesmaids lockstepped down the long aisle while the befrocked groom and his men marched stolidly into place.

Finally, oh so finally, the wedding march thundered from the orchestra. Here comes the bride. Proceeded by four enthusiastic mini-princesses chunking flower petals, and two dwarfish ringbearers - one for each ring. The congregation rose and turned in anticipation.

Ah, the bride. She had been dressed for hours if not days. No adrenalin was left in her body. Left alone with her father in the reception hall of the church while the march of the maidens went on and on, she had walked along the tables laden with gourmet goodies and absentmindedly sampled first the little pink and yellow and green mints. Then she picked through the silver bowls of mixed nuts and ate the pecans. Followed by a cheeseball or two, some black olives, a handful of glazed almonds, a little sausage with a frilly toothpick stuck in it, a couple of shrimps blanketed in bacon, and a cracker piled with liver pate. To wash this down - a glass of pink champagne. Her father gave it to her. To calm her nerves.

What you noticed as the bride stood in the doorway was not her dress, but her face. White. For what was coming down the aisle was a living grenade with the pin pulled out.

The bride threw up.

Just as she walked by her mother.

And by "threw up," I don't mean a polite little ladylike *urp* into her handkerchief. She puked. There's just no nice word for it. I mean, she hosed the front of the chancel - hitting two bridesmaids, the groom, a ringbearer, and me.

I am quite sure of the details. We have it all on videotape. Three cameras' worth. The MOTB had thought of everything.

Having disgorged her hors d'oeuvres, champagne, and the last of her dignity, the bride went limp in her father's arms, while her groom sat down on the floor where he had been standing, too stunned to function. And the mother of the bride fainted, slumping over in rag-doll disarray.
We had a fire drill then and there at the front of the church that only the Marx Brothers could have topped. Groomsmen rushed about heroically, mini-princess flower girls squalled, bridesmaids sobbed, and people with weak stomachs headed for the exits. All the while, unaware, the orchestra played on. The bride had not only come, she was gone - into some other state of consciousness. The smell of fresh retch drifted across the church and mixed with the smell of guttering candles. Napoleon and Waterloo came back to mind.

Only two people were seen smiling. One was the mother of the groom. And the other was the father of the bride.

What did we do? Well, we went back to real life. Guests were invited to adjourn to the reception hall, though they did not eat or drink as much as they might have in different circumstances. The bride was consoled, cleaned up, fitted out with a bridemaid's dress, and hugged and kissed a lot by the revived groom. (She'll always love him for that. When he said "for better or worse," he meant it.) The cast was reassembled where we left off, a single flute played a quiet air, the words were spoken and the deed was done. Everybody cried, as people are supposed to do at weddings, mostly because the groom held the bride in his arms through the whole ceremony. And no groom ever kissed his bride more tenderly than he.

If one can hope for a wedding that it be memorable, then theirs was a raging success. NOBODY who was there will EVER forget it.

They lived as happily ever after as anyone does - happier than most, in fact. They have been married about twelve years now, and have three lively children.

But that's not the end of the story. The best part is still to come. On the tenth anniversary of this disastrous affair, a party was held. Three TV sets were mustered, a feast was laid, and best friends invited. (Remember, there were three video cameras at the scene of the accident, so all three films were shown at once.) The event was hilarious, especially with the running commentary and the stop-action stuff that is a little gross when seen one frame at a time. The part that got cheers and toasts was when the camera focused on the grin on the face of the father of the bride as he contemplates his wife as she is being revived.

The reason I say this is the best part is not because of the party. But because of who organized it. Of course. The infamous MOTB. The mother of the bride is still at it, but she's a lot looser these days. She not only forgave her husband and everybody else for their part in the debacle, she forgave herself. And nobody laughed harder at the film than she.

There's a word for what she has. Grace.

And that's why that same grinning man has been married to he for forty years. And why her daughter loves her still.

Fathers and sons


Pigeons


Spider

This is my neighbour. Nice Lady. Coming out her front door, on her way to work and in her “looking good” mode. She’s locking the door now and picking up her daily luggage: purse, lunch bag, gym bag for aerobics, and the garbage bucket to take out. She turns, sees me, gives me the big, smiling Hello, takes three steps across her front porch. And goes “AAAAAAAAGGGGGGGGGHHHHHHHHH!!!!” (That’s a direct quote.) At about the level of a fire engine at full cry.

Spider web! She has walked full force into a spider web. And the pressing question, of course: Just where is the spider now?

She flings her baggage in all directions. And at the same time does a high-kick, jitterbug sort of dance – like a mating stork in crazed heat. Clutches at her face and hair and goes “AAAAAAAAGGGGGGGGGHHHHHHHHH!!!!” at a new level of intensity. Tries opening the front door without unlocking it. Tries again. Breaks the key in the lock. Runs around the house headed for the back door. Doppler effect of “AAAAAAAAGGGGGGGGGHHHHHHHHH!!!!”

Now a different view of this scene. Here is the spider. Rather ordinary, medium gray, middle-aged lady spider. She’s been up since before dawn working on her web, and all is well. Nice day, no wind, dew point just right to keep things sticky. She’s out checking the moorings and thinking about the little gnats she’d like to have for breakfast. Feeling good. Ready for action. All of a sudden all hell breaks loose – earthquake, tornado, volcano. The web is torn loose and is wrapped around a frenzied moving haystack, and a huge piece of raw-but-painted meat is making a sound the spider has never heard: “AAAAAAAAGGGGGGGGGHHHHHHHHH!!!!”

It’s too big to wrap up and eat later, and it’s moving too much to hold down.

Jump for it? Hang on and hope? Dig in?

Human being. The spider has caught a human being. And the pressing question is, of course: Where is it going and what will it do when it gets there?

The neighbour lady thinks the spider is about the size of a lobster and has big rubber lips and poisonous fangs. The neighbour lady will probably strip to the skin and take a full shower and shampoo just to make sure it’s gone - and then put on a whole new outfit to make certain she’s not inhabited.

The spider? Well, if she survives all this, she will really have something to talk about – the one that got away that was THIS BIG. “And you should have seen the JAWS on the thing!”

Spiders. Amazing creatures. Been around maybe 350 million years, so they can cope with about anything. Lots of them, too – sixty or seventy thousand per suburban acre. Yes. It’s the web thing that I envy. Imagine what it would be like if people were equipped like spiders. If we had this little six-nozzled aperture right at the base of our spine and we could make yards of something like glass-fibre with it. Wrapping packages would be a cinch!

Mountain climbing would never be the same. Think of the Olympic events. And mating and child rearing would take on new dimensions. Well, you take it from there. It boggles the mind. Cleaning up human-sized webs would be a mess, on the other hand.

All this reminds me of a song I know. And you know, too. And your parents and your children, they know. About the itsy-bitsy spider. Went up the waterspout. Down came the rain and washed the spider out. Out came the sun and dried up all the rain. And the itsy-bitsy spider went up the spout again. You probably know the motions too.

What’s the deal here? Why do we all know that song? Why do we keep passing it on to our kids? Especially when it puts spiders in such favourable light? Nobody goes “AAAAAAAAGGGGGGGGGHHHHHHHHH!!!!” when they sing it. Maybe because it puts the life adventure in such clear and simple terms. The small creature is alive and looks for adventure. Here’s the drainpipe – a long tunnel going up towards some light. The spider doesn’t even think about it – just goes. Disaster befalls it – rain, flood, powerful forces. And the spider is knocked down and out beyond where it started. Does the spider say, “To hell with that”? No. Sun comes out – clears things up – dries off the spider. And the small creature goes over to the drainpipe and looks up and thinks it really wants to know what is up there. It’s a little wiser now – checks the sky first, looks for better toeholds, says a spider prayer, and heads up through mystery toward the light and wherever.

Living things have been doing that for a long, long time. Through every kind of disaster and setback and catastrophe. We are survivors. And we teach our kids about that. And maybe spiders tell their kids about it, too, in their spider way.

So the neighbour lady will survive and be a little wiser coming out the door on her way to work. And the spider, if it lives, will do likewise. And if not, well, there are lots more spiders, and the word gets around. Especially when the word is “AAAAAAAAGGGGGGGGGHHHHHHHHH!!!!”

The briefcase


Christmas/ Valentine’s day


A tomb with a view


Are there any questions?

"Are there any questions?" An offer that comes at the end of college lectures and long meetings. Said when an audience is not only overdosed with information, but when there is no time left anyhow. At times like that you mostly assuredly do have questions. Like, "Can we leave now?" and "What was this meeting scheduled for anyhow?" and "Where can I get a sandwich?" The gesture is supposed to indicate openness on the part of the speaker, I suppose, but if in fact you do ask a question, both the speaker and the audience will give you drop-dead looks. And some fool-some earnest idiot-always asks. And the speaker always answers. By repeating most of what he has already said. But if there was ever a little time left and there was a little silence in response to the invitation, I usually asked the most important question of all: "What is the meaning of life?"

You never know-somebody may have the answer, and I'd really hate to miss it because I was too socially inhibited to ask. But when I asked, it's was usually taken as a kind of an absurdist move - people laughed and nodded and began to gather up their stuff and the meeting was dismissed on that ridiculous note.

Once, and only once, I asked the question and got a serious answer. One that is with me still. I went to an institute dedicated to Christian understanding and Biblical truth in rural Montana. At the last session on the last morning of a four-day seminar on Christian influence in American culture, led by intellectuals and experts in their fields, the man heading up the seminar, Dr. Alexander Lapagia rose from his chair at the back of the room and walked to the front, where he stood in the bright sunlight of an open window and looked out. We followed his gaze across the river to the iron cross marking a cemetery from the WW II era. He turned and made the ritual gesture: "Are there any questions?"

Quiet quilted the room. These four days had generated enough questions for a lifetime, but for now there was only silence. "No questions?" Lapagia swept the room with his eyes. So, I asked. "Dr. Lapagia, what is the meaning of life?" The usual laughter followed, and people stirred to go.Lapagia held up his hand and stilled the room and looked at me for a long time, asking with his eyes if I was serious, and seeing from my eyes that I was.

"I will answer your question." Taking his wallet out of his hip pocket, he fished into his leather billfold and brought out a very small round mirror, about the size of a quarter. And what he said went like this: "When I was a small child in Italy during World War II, we were very poor and we lived in a remote village. One day, on the road, I found the broken pieces of a mirror. A German motorcycle had been wrecked in that place. I tried to find all the pieces and put them together, but it was not possible, so I kept only the largest piece. This one. And by scratching it on a stone, I made it round. I began to play with it as a toy and became fascinated by the fact that I could reflect light into dark places where the sun would never shine-into deep holes and crevices and dark closets. It became a game for me to get light into the most inaccessible places I could find. I kept the little mirror, and as I went about my growing up, I would take it out in idle moments and continue the challenge of the game. As I became a man, however, I grew to understand that this was not just a child's game, but a metaphor for what I might do with my life. I came to understand that I am not the light or the source of the light. But the light of Jesus - truth, love, understanding, knowledge - is there, and it will only shine in many dark places if I reflect it. I was once a broken shard of mirror whom Christ has shaped into a better tool for shining light. I am a fragment of His mirror whose whole design and shape I do not know.

Nevertheless, with what I have, I can reflect light into the dark places of this world-into the black places in the hearts of men-and Jesus can use me to change some things in some people. Perhaps others may see and do likewise. This is what I am about. This is the meaning of my life." And then he took his small mirror and, holding it carefully, caught the bright rays of daylight streaming through the window and reflected them onto my face and onto my hands folded on the desk.

Much of what I experienced in the way of information that summer is gone from memory. But in the wallet of my mind I carry a small round mirror still. I can now "reflect" upon what I learned on the meaning of life.

Are there any questions????

Tuesday, July 19, 2005

An Italian's Holiday to Scotland

This is a funny little piece that we were given at a charming little Italian restaurant in Edinburgh. The place is called La Lanterna, is located at Hanover Street, and has a dainty hostess in Antonietta Zaino, popularly known as Toni. Enjoy the humor of the pleasant people of La Lanterna (verbatim):

An Italian's Holiday to Scotland

One day I ma come to Scotland to a bigga posha Hotel. I goa down to eat some breakfast. I tella the waitress I wanna two pissa toast. She bringa me only one piss so I tella her I wanna two piss, she saya go to the toilet, I say you no understand I wanna two piss on my plate. She say you better no piss on the plate you sonna Ma bitch. I don't even know the lady an she calla me sonna Ma bitch.....Then I goa to eat soma lunch. The waitress bringa me a spoon, ana knife, but no fock. I tella her I wanna fock. She tellsa me everybody wanna fock. I tella her, you no understand, I wanna fock on the table. She say you better not fock on the table you sonna Ma bitch, I don't even know the lady an she calla me sonna Ma bitch. So I goa back to my room inna hotel, an there's no sheet on my bed. I calla the manager and tell him I wanna sheet. He tellsa me go to the toilet. So I say you no understand, I wanna sheet on the bed. He say you better not sheet on the bed, you sonna Ma bitch. I donna even know the man ana he calla me a sonna Ma bitch. I goa to check out ana the man at the desk, he say peace to you. I say piss anna you too, you sonna Ma bitch. I goa back to Italy!!!

Monday, June 06, 2005

Ba(Sin) City

Are you expecting something like Robert Rodriguez's previous feats El Mariachi, Desperado or Once Upon a Time in Mexico? Or some standard comic-book fare like Frank Miller's Elektra?
You have no idea what you are getting yourself into. Perhaps you missed the "guest director" part of the credits. Quentin Tarantino, yells (everything yells in the movie) this special credit. Achtung baby! Don't put a foot inside the theater if Kill Bill made you queasy.

The credits also say that the movie is an adaptation of graphic novels of the same name by Frank Miller. To tell you the truth, I missed the adaptation. I just got the graphic novels. And thoroughly enjoyable ones at that, I must admit.

The movie has three intertwined stories. Chief of them, is the story of Marv, a tough-as-nails misanthrope out to avenge the murder of Goldie, a prostitute that he had fallen in love with, in just one night. Dwight, the clandestine lover of Shelley, is out to protect his beloved from Jackie Boy. He ends up fighting to defend Gail and her Old Town girls. What a sucker for the damsel in distress! Oh, and there is Hartigan who takes on the most powerful politician of the slimy city to protect a girl's honor. Love truly brings out the best and the worst in men.

Initially, as one story gave way to another, I was reminded of Prawal Raman's Darna Mana Hai, which I thought was a good movie, though not even close to being in the same vicinity as Sin City. Anyways, while the friends give narratorial support and interconnectivity to Raman's stories, characters of Sin City touch each other's lives in invisible ways in the "normal" course of things. Also, Sin City makes the protagonists moonlight as narrators. That is probably what gave me the impression of reading a novel. I enjoy reading books much more than watching movies based on them, partly because movies don't let you get into the mind of the characters. This movie lets me know what the protagonist is thinking, and that's cool.

The director has chosen to use exaggeration as a stylistic element, as is appropriate for a comic-book of this kind. So, there are monster-from-hellish characters, unspeakable evil and incredible action-feats. And you watch all that without batting an eyelid. The most striking manifestation of the art of exaggeration, though, is in the chromography of the movie. It is a black and white movie of the film noir genre with certain elements like blood and lipstick in color. This exclusivity accentuates the colors and works magic on the screen.

For all that sorcery, the stories are simple but amazingly human. You start feeling for, rooting for, and praying for the protagonists as if they were real people. Marv achieves the amazing coup by simultaneously activating in you a feeling of awe and pity through his invincibility and vulnerability. The crooked photographer Dwight seems like the most upright man in the world.

And your heart goes out to Hartigan when he says, "An old man dies; a young woman lives. Fair trade."